William S

Re: Need Help Plating Nickel over Nickel

I am looking for a process that you can plate bright nickel over bright nickel? Without peeling problems? Any help would be great. Thanks. William

CaptainTripz

Re: Need Help Plating Nickel over Nickel

You could use a cyanide activator.  Same principle as when dummying a bright nickel tank with previously used dummies.  Activate with cyanide activator to keep chunks from sloughing off the dummies into the solution.  Just make sure you are equipt to deal with the cyanide waste treatment.

Dedalus

Re: Need Help Plating Nickel over Nickel

From a waste treatment perspective, nickel cyanide is one of the hardest cyanide wastes to treat. Ni(CN)42- is just barely amenable to chlorination. To treat wastes like this, I'd have to maintain a chlorine residual in the batch for 24 hours or more.

I'm certainly no plater, but could a Woods strike be used instead?

Labrat

Re: Need Help Plating Nickel over Nickel

The most successful nickel reactivation process I have used is the cyanide activation process. Used cathodically, the make up is 8 opg Potassium Cyanide, 8 opg Potassium Hydroxide (Caustic Potash) and water to operating level. I normally reactivate for 5 minutes, cyanide copper flash (no rinse between), rinse well, then into bright nickel.
I have heard of other methods that worked well that you may want to experiment with: cathodic activation in 30% hydrochloric acid; Woods nickel strike (Nickel Chloride, Hydrochloric Acid, water) for 1-2 minutes, very quick rinse, and into bright nickel.

skelton

Re: Need Help Plating Nickel over Nickel

William S,

I can speak from experience that its part "how you hold your mouth" and the rest following process procedure.

Plating over a passive nickel coating can be much compared to that of plating over stainless steel, which is methodical process. But, simple all in the same.

You have one of two choices and can incorporate one into the others process  if it makes sense for what other processes you are performing.

1) Degrease/Soak Cleaner
2) Electroclean (Direct (1 min.), Reverse (1 min.), Direct (10 sec.)), 20 asf
3) Rinse
4) Muriatice Acid (min. 50% v/v) or Acid Salt (1 1/2 lb. per gal.), 1 - 2 min.
5) No rinse. Woods Nickel Strike, 1 min. no current, 1 - 2 min. strike @ 10 - 20 asf.*
6) Rinse.
7) Bright Nickel Plate.

*After a good acid salt, an activated part can go into a Nickel Plating process. However, the Woods Nickel Strike offers somewhat of an insurance package and you can test to this by doing an adhesion test after the Woods Nickel Strike. Although, I have seen the process work without the strike.

Contact me via private message or contact your local chemistry supplier for details regarding a good acid salt.

I am only attesting to experience and without reservation will say that it is not 100% successful. Good luck in your trials.

Regards,


Skelton, hOST
FinishingTalkLive
www.finishingtalklive.com

DustinGebhardt

Re: Need Help Plating Nickel over Nickel

I'll second what Paul has already written.  In my personal experience, passing current through the acid (cathodically) can also help remove the stubborn nickel oxides on the surface of the part.  Also, an acid salt with some fluoride included tends to give me better results.

As the piece gets older, it becomes more difficult to reactivate, generally.  Also, try to avoid long times with a reverse current electrocleaner, as this will tend to form oxides as well.  Paul's electrocleaning process of direct, reverse, direct should do well.

In any case, I've never had this work 100% of the time.  On new material, I was lucky to get 75%.  50% yield was more common.  In the end, I stopped doing it.  I wasn't fully comfortable with the thought of the parts failing in the field some time down the road.

-Dustin Gebhardt, CEF

Advanced Manufacturing/Finishing Engineer

Moen

Sanford, NC

skelton

Re: Need Help Plating Nickel over Nickel

ya know what you get when you put Skelton and an A Brite representative in the same room???

A room full of bull$hit!!!!! haha!!! no really, be careful when you put the two together.....it could be dangerous

the funny thing right now is that he is right and what is even funnier is that I used his companies product when succeeding at this process....if I can remember it correctly, it was AS-10 salts.....I never was a fan of anodic current, who has time for mechanical assistance when if you hold your mouth just right, it works?!?!?!! thats right it works

but, if you have time and have tha patience, go head, stap a 12volt battery to your shit and reactivate that way.......its going to work, and you don't have to worry about your mouth

thanks Justin!!!!


Skelton, hOST
FinishingTalkLive
www.finishingtalklive.com

DustinGebhardt

Re: Need Help Plating Nickel over Nickel

Pickleen AS-10 is commonly used to reactivate nickel for subsequent plating.  We also have a more fluoridated product for very stubborn reactivations, Pickleen AS-7.

And A Brite + Paul may equal a room full of bullshit, but it's usually pretty good bullshit, eh?:D

-Dustin Gebhardt, CEF

Advanced Manufacturing/Finishing Engineer

Moen

Sanford, NC

khartz

Re: Need Help Plating Nickel over Nickel

best bet and i tried everything almost known to man ...good acid salt 12oz. per/gal 99% you will produce good parts...you need rectifier carbon anodes ..2min on 4 to 6 volts you should have no problem...dgm polishing and plating.......shop super Kevin

love bird

Re: Need Help Plating Nickel over Nickel




 
 
 


 


 
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Last edited by love bird (02/13/2015 - 07:01 AM)


 
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