Re: HEX chrome on hard steel [ Started by overchrome in Electroplating : 6 replies ]

The glass bead should work. If the glass beads seem to break down before producing a noticable etch, may need to use something more aggressive, like aluminum oxide. Make sure the part is thourougly cleaned before blasting, blast, then reverse current chrome / direct chrome plate.


Re: HEX chrome on hard steel [ Started by overchrome in Electroplating : 6 replies ]

This is normally the process used for hard chrome plating on steel. However, if you have adhesion problems, you could try a more agressive approach - soak clean (high alkaline) - electroclean (high alkaline) - electrolytic hydrochloric acid prep (reverse current/direct current/reverse current), rinse well, reverse current chrome etch, chrome plate. Another option (if permitted for appearance) is to sandblast after the alkaline cleaning step, then repeat the entire prep sequence stated above.

Hope this helps,
Shane Moore

Re: Hydrogen embrittlement [ Started by Labrat in Industrial Cleaning : 3 replies ]

Re: laquer on powder coat? [ Started by nathan in General Discussion : 1 replies ]

Just to understand correctly, are you wanting to change the matte finish to a gloss finish by applying a lacquer to the ballisters? If so, it depends on the characteristic of the powder that is resulting in the matte finish. A trick I use to get an idea of the finish appearance after a clear gloss lacquer, is to rub some oil from my forehead or nose with my index finger, then rub the piece I plan to lacquer. If there is no difference in appearance on the ballisters, the lacquer probably will not give you the finish you desire. If you do get the desired glossy finish, I would recommend applying a very small amount on an area that is less likely to be seen before applying the lacquer to all of your ballisters. Same recommendation for the wood.

Hope this helps.

Re: Sur-Fin 2007 Cleveland Schedule [ Started by Southern Metal Finishing in Industry News : 4 replies ]

I'll see you guys there! Looking forward to my first Sur/Fin visit!

Re: Bonding to electroless nickel [ Started by Nick in Electroless Plating : 6 replies ]

Unfortunately, I have never been asked to paint over electroless nickel. However, when I have questions relating to paint adhesion, I have found the tech service department of our paint vendor very helpful. You may want to contact a large paint corporation that staff these type of experts, such as Dupont or Sherwin Williams. I have personally used Dupont for these resources.

Re: electroplating on aluminum [ Started by juandajdj in Electroplating : 6 replies ]

I would recommend speaking with a rep from your chemical vendor about the complete set-up of your operation. The alloy of the aluminum can often dictate the pre-treatment method needed before plating your aluminum. For example, you may need an acidic cleaner rather than alkaline, may need to double zincate rather than single, may or may not need to alkaline etch then desmut. After the zincate layer has been applied, there are alternatives here as well. Some shops encapsulte the zincate with a cyanide cooper strike, then tin - some begin with a double nickel (sulfamate nickel / bright nickel / tin), some begin with an electroless nickel strike.
Since you will be purchasing the supplies from a vendor, let them help you with the homework. An experienced tech service rep from a reputable supplier will be able to help you make the best decisions with the complete set-up of your operation.

Re: Finishing.TV Reviews [ Started by Labrat in Finishing.TV : 7 replies ]

I give the "teaser" two thumbs up! Great idea guys. What will the show schedule look like? Weekly, monthly? Looking forward to watching the pilot episode.

So which one of you is Jimmy Kimmel? Will you have the girls jumping on trampolines?

Re: MIL-DTL-5541-F use or not use type I [ Started by AERHEAD2 in General Discussion : 3 replies ]

MIL-DTL-5541F is a detailed spec for a chemical conversion coating over aluminum. In a Type I coating, the chemical composition contains hexavalent chrome. Type II contains no hexavalent chrome. Class 1A is for maximum corrosion protection, Class 3 is for corrosion protection where low electrical resistance is required. Class 3 will result in a thinner deposit, thus less resistant to corrosion than Class 1A.

In response to your question of when each type and class should be used, I would assume that since the customer is using a detail spec, they would also specify the class and type. If the class is not specified, I would go with Class 1A. Southern Metal Finishing was correct about the different types, just for a different spec.

I am sure he was referring to an anodizing spec, such as MIL-A-8625. Sometimes the types and classes for aluminum finishing can be a bit confusing.

Re: Susan [ Started by susan in Electroplating : 3 replies ]

I am glad to see the problem was fixed.
A freeze out unit will definitely help, as long as you are using sodium cyanide instead of potassium cyanide. Potassium Carbonates will not freeze out since it is much more soluble than sodium carbonates.

Re: Susan [ Started by susan in Electroplating : 3 replies ]

Check concentration of Rochelle Salts. Should be 4-6 ounces per gallon. This helps corrode the anodes to prevent a passive film from coating the surface of the anodes. Also make sure pH is within parameters.
Check all electrical connections (busbar connections, rack connections, any copper to copper connection)for oxide building. This will insulate the connection, causing resistance in the flow of electricity.
Check for possible electrical grounds (steam coil touching anode, anode touching dropped parts in bottom of tank, busbar touching any metal structure, etc). If rack application, check rack tips and strip or sand if necessary.

Re: Class 4 Phosphate [ Started by recumbentbiker in Other : 4 replies ]

I apologize. I did not see the "type M" after the mil spec. I am interested in the results from your test. Please reply with your findings.

Re: To Dip or To Brush...which is better? [ Started by eddyc53 in General Discussion : 7 replies ]

Brush plating is used in touch up work and decorative plating. The problem with brush plating chrome work, is that many times a thick copper plate is needed initially, in order to polish to a mirror finish, then nickel plate, then chrome. It is very difficult to obtain a thick plate with brush plating. It is also extremely operator sensitive, in which a less experienced operator would probably see defects such as blistering, peeling, etc. Conventional plating is much more forgiving. Also, I do not this for a fact, but many in the industry have said that brush plating solutions are much more expensive than conventional.
This being said, I do not want to discourage you from entering this field. I have found my electroplating career to be challenging, interesting, and fulfilling - why else would I be answering this post at 10:30 on a friday night! If you have determined brush plating to be your best choice for entering the industry, I say get a kit, get some scrap parts, and practice, p …

Re: Class 4 Phosphate [ Started by recumbentbiker in Other : 4 replies ]

I am researching this question to get more information, but here are my initial thoughts:
Since the salt spray must exceed 24 hours, I would assume a heavy zinc phosphate layer (400 microinches), then the "inorganic chemical conversion" could refer to a chromate seal rinse. This would maximize the corrosion resistance, but not sure if it would pass 24 hours salt spray. Do you have these materials in-house to try a sample part and salt spray test?

Re: To Dip or To Brush...which is better? [ Started by eddyc53 in General Discussion : 7 replies ]

Immersing parts in chrome electroplating tank would give the most consistancy of plate, especially on larger parts. Decorative chrome is almost always electroplated over a layer of bright nickel. If the part is brush plated, the nickel could become passive before the entire part is plated with chrome, causing poor adhesion of the chrome.

Re: Polishing finishes [ Started by Bob in General Discussion : 2 replies ]

Electropolishing involves a reverse current applied to stainless steel parts in a mixed acidic solution, which dissolves the "peaks" to match the "valleys" on the surface to obtain a smooth bright surface. This application is much to aggressive for gold and would severly etch and dissolve the part.
There are both liquid and powder commercial burnishing compounds that could be used in an oblique type rolling barrel, in which the parts burnish each other as they roll and slide in the barrel. Media of varying materials can also be introduced for different effects. For quicker results, you could investigate using a small vibratory bowl for burnishing.

Re: Heavy Metals Precipitation question [ Started by Ryan Cook in Waste Water Treatment : 3 replies ]

Have you considered allowing the rinse water to pass though an ion exchange resin before entering the waste stream? I had this arrangement a few years ago for an alkaline non-cyanide copper and was very successful. Need to monitor the resin loading and regenerate when resin reaches limit.

Re: Ryan Cook: Team Metal Finishing [ Started by Ryan Cook in General Discussion : 2 replies ]

Hi Ryan,
Hope you had a great easter! Welcome to the forum. Good to see someone on here from my neighborhood. This is a great site to talk about finishing or anything else relating to the industry. Great anodizing post by the way. Hope all is well at TMF.

Shane @ Scovill

Re: Hello, looking for Cu on PEEK suggestions [ Started by lukme in Electroplating : 1 replies ]

Enthone (Cookson Electronics) has new technology for plating on many different types of plastic. Try contacting them to see if they have a process for activating the PEEK so that it can be metallized.
I have set up a pilot line recently that I plan to use for beta-testing this new technology. If you would like, I can contact you outside of this forum to get a few sample pieces of your PEEK tubing. I can try and work out a successful process for you. If you are interested, please reply with your email address. This would be beneficial for both of us, in that I could then offer this as one of our finishing services.

Re: Suggestions and tips for a small in house plating plant. [ Started by Madness42 in Electroplating : 3 replies ]

Many factors will influence the initial capital cost. Tank size, rectifier size, which chromate (clear/blue, yellow, black), type of waste treatment, type of ventilation, etc. I recommend determining the type of set up that will suffice for processing your parts, then go to and browse the used equipment available.

Re: Suggestions and tips for a small in house plating plant. [ Started by Madness42 in Electroplating : 3 replies ]

If either finish is acceptable, I would go with bright zinc. Zinc is much less expensive and more forgiving than nickel. Also, if these parts are steel, you would need to copper plate first, then nickel. Zinc can be plated directly over steel.
Before investing in any equipment, you need to apply for the proper permits (waste-water and air), and research all equipment that will be needed to ensure you comply with their regulations. I would suggest hiring a metal finishing consultant to assist you in this.
After your complete installation, there are a number of experienced metal finishers on this forum that can help with any technical assistance.

By the way, where are you located?

Re: Need Powder Coating Assistance? Just Ask! [ Started by Travis Stirewalt in Powder Coating : 6 replies ]

Would like to help, but need more info. What type of resistance are you referrring to...heat resistance, electrical resistance, UV resistance, ....?

Re: Hello ! [ Started by Richard in Electroplating : 2 replies ]

Unless the spec defines otherwise, I would recommend processing in the sulfamate nickel immediately after the electroless nickel. This way the nickel remains active, thus better chance of success with adhesion of nickel sulfamate over the EN. If baked between these steps, you would have to ensure the nickel is reactivated before processing in the nickel sulfamate.
Electroless nickel contributes less hydrogen embrittlement than electrolytic nickel. Again, unless the spec states otherwise, I would wait until both plating steps are complete before baking.
In my experience, baking the nickel can actually promote adhesion, rather than decrease the adhesion. So no, I would not think that these times and temperatures you mentioned would affect the adhesion. If you plan to bake, you should do so soon after plating.

Re: copperplating [ Started by aarchy_ind in Electroplating : 1 replies ]

It is not advised to plate acid copper over steel, since you will have a copper immersion plate that lacks adhesion. You can coat the steel with a cyanide copper strike bath, then plate the hard copper over this layer. The concentrations of the copper sulfate, sulfuric acid, and hardening additive should be determined by your chemical vendor.

Re: painting brassy shower trim [ Started by sjpeng in Painting : 2 replies ]

Can these parts be easily removed? If so, I would recommend a cupric oxide finish, in which the chemistry of the oxiding solution can be modified to produce different shades from green-brown-black. This oxide coating can then be selectively relieved or polished to give an antique oil-rubbed finish. The part would then need to be lacquered to prevent further oxidation.